The Science of a Breaking Wave.

The Science of a Breaking Wave.

Living by the sea and obviously loving it as much as I do, leads as much to questions being asked as well and canvases being filled.

As ‘Finn the Dog’ and I share a walk along the beach, the seagulls dancing in the wind, my scarf wrapped up as warmly as possible and the waves crashing on the stones; I can’t help but admire the crashing waves.

No doubt you’ll remember from your school days, the science of how a wave breaks. How as the wave races towards to shore into shallower and shallower waters, the seabed acts as a brake slowing the bottom of the wave. At a certain point, the top of the wave is going faster than the bottom and the wave starts to break. If you’re in a kayak or on a board this is when the fun starts. If you are walking the dog along the beach, then this is when you marvel at the surf and maybe remember the geeky fact that a wave will start to break when it reaches a water depth of 1.3 times the wave height. Wishing you breaking waves on your next beach walk.


By |2018-06-14T07:58:59+00:00November 1st, 2016|Ecology, Geography, Nature|0 Comments

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